By Harriet Mallinson | Published on June 30, 2017
The joy of the first ice lolly of the summer never seems to get old. Who else still feels a childish glee at the sight of the ice cream van?
But, the frozen treat on a stick is no longer the preserve of little ones. Nadia and Cesar Roden, of London-based ice lolly company, Ice Kitchen, produce lollies for adults – and yes that means with alcohol. Think Pink Negronis and Roasted Banana Rumsicles.
MACROS caught up with Cesar to find out more and even managed to wrangle a recipe from him so we can all try our hand at “poptails†at home.
Tell us a bit about Ice Kitchen lollies
All our lollies are handmade in north west London. We only use whole natural fruit, with no artificial colours, additives or flavours.
They’re naturally gluten free and we have many vegan, dairy free, and low calorie options. Some include dairy and are on the more indulgent side but we have also have extremely healthy lolly options.
How did you start selling ice lollies?
Ice Kitchen started back in New York in 2010 when I was visiting my Aunt Nadia and helping out with her lolly business for a summer. Nobody else makes them like we do in England, so when I returned I really wanted to show off our special, gourmet lollies in London.
I’ve always been interested in food and so continuing the lolly adventure across the pond seemed natural to me. In 2013, I turned the upstairs kitchen of my parents’ house into the Ice Kitchen with the specialist equipment Nadia had sent over and immediately started experimenting. Soon I was selling on the South Bank and various other street markets.
Cesar and Nadia Cohen with their boozy “poptails”
Spill more about the alcoholic lollies!
We’ve always included some alcoholic ice lollies in our range as they’re fun, delicious and definitely something different! ​​
One of the main problems we encountered, though, is that alcohol doesn’t like to freeze, but this actually led to some unexpected and delicious solutions. For instance, we would dip the poptails into a glass of well-matched alcohol and this became a big part of the excitement.
There’s something a little mischievous about turning a childhood treat into a strictly adult one. Our cocktail lollies, or “poptailsâ€, are a fun new culinary experience – tasty, elegant, luxurious, playful and quirky.
What makes a good ice lolly?
The ideal ice lolly should boast exciting combinations and offer unique flavours; you want to either lick the lolly and think “Wow!†If you’re making lollies yourself, it’s great to try something that has never been done before and to continually be experimenting.
What are your top tips for making lollies at home?
It’s important to give the mixture in the moulds plenty of time to freeze all the way through. It can be really tempting to take them out early, but they’ll just be slush if you don’t wait long enough. Have patience and you will be rewarded.
Another obvious tip – and it’s surprising how often people forget to do this – is to make sure the sticks are in. You need to wait for the lollies to freeze a little before putting the sticks in… but don’t get distracted and forget!
Final tip, don’t eat them all at once – try and save a few, as you don’t want brain freeze!
– RELATED: Iced Coconut Halva, Pomegranate & Pistachio Bark Recipe –
Inspired and longing for a lolly? Try this Mixed Berries in Riesling ice lolly recipe from Cesar and Nada’s brand new book, Poptails.
Mixed Berries in Riesling Ice Lolly Recipe
Makes 8 – 10
You’ll need
450g mixed berries, such as blueberries, redcurrants, raspberries, blackberries or strawberries
90g cup caster or granulated sugar
11/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
290ml Riesling wine
Method
1. Put all the berries in a bowl, sprinkle over the sugar, then the lemon juice and 120ml of the Riesling.
2. Leave to macerate for a few hours, until the berries are soft and the flavours have mingled. Now stir in the remaining Riesling
3. Pour the mixture into the moulds, making sure you distribute the berries evenly, leaving a little space at the top. If you like, drop in a sliver of lemon and a mint leaf.
4. Freeze until slushy, 60–90 minutes, then insert the sticks and freeze until solid, at least 5 hours or overnight.
Harriet is Editor of MACROS and perfectly capable of eating an entire log of goat’s cheese in one sitting.
